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Historic Murphysburg Preservation, Joplin, Missouri

Celebrating National Historic Districts & Places That Matter

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house front path leading to front door

Route 66

Crystal Cave Joplin Missouri

May 4, 2025 //  by Paula Callihan

Six miles of chartered underground passages, it is one of the most significant caves in the state according to Missouri Caves in History

Deep beneath the bustling streets of Joplin Missouri lies a hidden crown jewel. Once the subject of intense personal pride by area residents, this gone, but not forgotten, crystal-lined geode cave is now permanently flooded by the high water table in the area. 

On Saturday, July 4, 1908, the cave entrance building was completed, and the cave was opened to the public. Admission was 25 cents. Guests descended down 80 wooden steps to enjoy year round entertainment in a comfortable climate.

Carbon arc electric lights existed in the cave. The wooden dance floor in the cave was about eight feet wide, by 20 feet long. 

The 21st Annual Report of the Bureau of Mines and Mine Inspection of the State of Missouri, published in 1907,  stated that the dimensions of the cave, as measured, are 10 to 40 feet in height, 45 to 70 feet in width, and 250 feet in length.

 In the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, the Tri-State area of Oklahoma, Kansas and Missouri has seen a great deal of mining activity. A variety of minerals were mined, with the primary ores being lead and zinc. The ores in the Tri-State area were deposited in cavities that had been dissolved out of the limestone. From time to time, considerable voids would be found containing minerals such as galena and large calcite crystals.

The cave chamber is elongated from the northwest to the southeast. Being located some 80 feet beneath the city streets, the cave was like a giant geode full of large calcite crystals up to 22 inches in size! The entire surface of the cave, including the top, bottom, and all sides, were covered with closely packed calcite crystals with well formed faces!

The Honorable James Roach broke into the natural cave while digging a mine shaft in the early part of 1893, near the corner of 4th Street and Gray Avenue in Joplin.


Crystal Cave was closed by 1932, the cave entrance was blocked so vandals could not enter the closed cave. The uniquely constructed cave entrance building still remained standing.

After World War II, the remaining mines in the area shut down. Their pumps were all turned off, and the water table gradually rose. This water eventually flooded the mine level and then Crystal Cave above. The smaller mine above Crystal Cave flooded also.

The information was taken in part by the MISSOURI’S CRYSTAL CAVE Joplin’s Crown Jewel by Gary K. Soule’s article In the publication The Journal of Spelean History.

Category: HistoryTag: architecture, cave, geology, history, Route 66

The Legacy of Jo Kilbane: A Life of Service in Joplin

March 24, 2025 //  by Mary Anne Phillips

Women’s History Month featuring Mary Joanne Kilbane

Were you delivered by Dr. Irvin Kilbane either at home or in a hospital? Do you know the story about the woman behind the doctor? 

In commemoration of Women’s History Month, Historic Murphysburg Preservation, Inc. presents the life and work of Mary Joanne “Jo” Booher Kilbane, also known to the Joplin community as Dr. Irvin Kilbane’s wife, nurse, and assistant.  Jo was born in Cerro Gordo, Illinois in 1927.  She claimed to have been born in the same bed in which her mother was born.  She attended high school in Peoria, Illinois.  Jo married Bernard Rosenak in 1945 and they moved to Joplin in 1952.

According to Joplin City Directories, Jo worked at Reserve Life Insurance in 1963.  When Joplin General Hospital at 521 W. 4th Street closed in 1963, Dr. Kilbane moved his medical practice to his house at 420 S. Byers Avenue.  In 1964 Jo started as a laboratory technician at Dr. Kilbane’s office, and in 1965 her job was listed as a receptionist.  Jo and Irv were married on September 8, 1966.  She completed her education and received her License Practical Nursing certification and license from the Missouri State Board of Nursing in 1971.  Jo assisted her husband in his medical practice until he retired in 2003.  Irv was born in 1915 and passed away in 2005.

Lori and Jeremy Haun, current owners of the Kilbane’s former house and medical office, proudly display the doctor’s sign in the house.

Jo brought five children to the marriage and Irv brought three, but through the years, the couple fostered many children.  In a Joplin Globe interview published on July 21, 2002, Jo tells the following story: “Irv delivered the baby, a girl.  The mother was single and white. [The baby’s father was African American.] She was dealing with some family issues and felt she couldn’t cope with raising a baby.  She and the baby stayed with us for a while.”  When the mother decided to join the military, she left the baby with the Kilbanes.  “We had her for seven years and felt like she was ours.  We were in the process of trying to adopt her when the mother came home and decided to take her back.”


Irv never converted to the Jewish faith, but because he was a member of a Jewish family, he is buried with Jo in the Jewish section at Mount Hope Cemetery in Webb City, and both of their names were placed on the “In Memoriam” plaque at the temple in Joplin.

Jo was active in the United Hebrew Congregation and the Temple Aid Sisterhood.  The Sisterhood sponsored bake sales, cookbook sales, and food fairs.  Jo was particularly known for her homemade cheesecakes, making around 50 cakes every year for friends, family, and bake sales.  Often times the cheesecakes were garnished with pansies from her yard.

The Kilbanes were also considered an “interfaith couple”— Jo was Jewish and Irv was a Methodist.  What would have been a major challenge for any blended family, Jo and Irv made it work with a sophisticated schedule.  According to a Joplin Globe interview with Jo printed on June 22, 1997, she said Irv attended temple (United Hebrew Congregation Temple at 702 S. Sergeant) with her on Friday evenings when he wasn’t delivering babies. On Sunday, he dropped her children off at temple for Hebrew lessons, then took his children to St. James Methodist Church for Sunday school.  Irv then returned home for Jo and she accompanied him to Sunday church services.  The Kilbanes celebrated both Christmas and Hanukkah while their children were young.


The former Oak Hill Hospital in Joplin—where Dr. Kilbane served as chief of staff—also benefited from Jo’s volunteer service through the hospital’s auxiliary.  The auxiliary staffed a gift shop, held ham and bean suppers, spaghetti-chili dinners, bazaars, art auctions, bake sales, ice cream socials, and made tray favors for patients.  The money raised by the auxiliary funded the purchase of medical and educational equipment and supplies needed at the hospital.        

In 1979 the Newburger building was razed and the City built a new structure that stands today.  Carver School eventually closed in 2004 due to the lack of sufficient income and the expansion of the Head Start program.   

For many years she was a volunteer and board member of George Washington Carver Memorial Nursery School, formerly located at 520 S. School Avenue in Joplin’s Ewert Park.  The school was formed for children of working Black families.  The mission was eventually expanded to include all children.  According to a Joplin Globe article on May 4, 1952 when the school moved into the Newburger Community House, the concept of the school started around 1926 on the “…dreams and hopes of the Negro citizens…”  Prior to the donation of land and money by Viola Newman Newburger and her late husband, Gabe Newburger, the school was held in a pavilion at Ewert Park. 

Another example of Jo’s commitment to education was as a board member of Women in Community Service, Inc. (WICS).  WICS was started in Joplin in June 1966 by the National Councils of Church Women United to serve as Job Corps recruiters to help find jobs for underprivileged girls 16 to 21 years old.  Jo represented the Council of Jewish Women on the WICS board.  Also on the board was Minnie Hackney representing the Council of Negro Women.  Girls attending Job Corps training centers were given transportation, room and board, some clothing, medical and dental expenses and $30 a month.  Girls were accepted for the Job Corps who had completed high school, but who had not obtained job skills, or who had dropped out of school.  Girls in the centers who had not completed high school could acquire an equivalent to a high school diploma.

Amber Ashby grew up at 419 S. Moffet, across the alley to the west of the Kilbane home and office.  She worked for Dr. Kilbane for over 18 years up to his retirement.  Her sister, Deanna Doss also worked for the doctor.  When interviewed for this story, Amber said, “Jo was a one-of-a-kind lady, very unique, and you always knew where you stood with her.” 


Amber further stated, “The yard was another love of Jo’s; it was always well manicured and one year she had hundreds of tulips planted along with pansies, rose bushes, and peonies.”  In June of 1996, the Kilbane yard was part of a garden tour featuring bird houses, perennial beds, window boxes, and container planting.


Jo was also known for their collection of antiques: furniture, children’s toys and furniture, clothes, musical instruments, kitchen utensils, miniature figures, fine china, sewing machines, portraits, photographs on tin plates…and 35 stoves.  At their Murphysburg home, there was at least one antique stove in every room.

Amber further reported, “If anyone else had such a large collection of antiques in their house, it would look like a hoarder lived there, but Jo made the house look like a livable museum.”  She would have a small trinket box or basket sitting on a table with smaller trinkets inside.  “There was never an empty ‘anything’ in the house.” 

Mary Joanne passed away in 2013 after a long struggle with Alzheimer Disease—and after a long history of family and community service.  According to her obituary in The Joplin Globe, “Her home was always open, and there was always room at her table and a brisket in the freezer [ready to cook for company, events, or funerals.]  She gave her children and grandchildren her infectious joy and sense of humor for the human condition, and encouraged and supported each of them to be whoever they wanted to be.”

Photograph of the Kilbane House looking west. The Medical Office is the detached red brick building pictured in the upper right corner of the property.

HISTORY OF THE HOUSE AT 420 S. BYERS AVENUE & ITS DOCTORS

The red brick house was built around 1890 in the Queen Anne style and was designed by the local architect, C. W. Kellog.  The first owner of this elaborate house was a dry goods merchant, Simon Schwartz and his wife Hennie. 

The second owner, John Graham (1872-1917) was a wholesale grocer and horse lover.  In 1898, Mr. Graham constructed an elegant brick stable at the back of the property to accommodate his beloved horses. 

The next owner, Dr. Samuel Ashby Grantham (1866-1938), housed his medical office in the parlor of the main house but in 1916, relocated it to the stable.  Dr. Grantham, an orthopedic surgeon, constructed a blacksmith shop above the office where he could make the pins and braces he needed for his many patients.  When Dr. Grantham died, his younger son, Sam, took over the practice.

Dr. Irvine Kilbane (1915-2005) purchased the house and “stable” on September 22, 1963, just four days after Joplin General Hospital closed, most likely with the plan of moving his practice to Dr. Grantham’s former medical office.  Through the years, he made house calls and answered late night emergencies.  He provided immunizations, conducted examinations, performed lab work, and did minor surgeries at his home office.  Jo’s job was to make sure the clinic (and her husband!) operated smoothly.

After Dr. Kilbane’s death, and after Jo moved out of the house, the Kilbane/Rosenak children auctioned off the house and its contents in 2007.

Category: History, Women of MurphysburgTag: architecture, entrepreneurs Women, history, Route 66

The Mayflower Apartments

December 21, 2024 //  by Mary Anne Phillips

Original Owners: Harry Bennett and Richard Cole, both of Joplin
Opened February 1, 1929 Originally, the name was to be the “Colben” based on Cole and Bennett’s last names but was changed to “Mayflower” once construction started.

In October 1928, investors were sought for the Mayflower through bonds guaranteed by Cole Bennett Investment Company—“two responsible businessmen whose net worth exceeds the amount of the bond issue.” Maturity was to be from 1931 to 1938 with a yield of 5.8% to 6%. To put that timeline in perspective—and simply defined—the beginning of America’s “Great Depression” is often cited as the dramatic crash of the stock market on October 24, 1929 known as “Black Thursday” and October 29, 1929 known as “Black Tuesday.” Economic recovery started around World War II in 1939-1940.

Excerpts from a Joplin Globe August 24, 1928 news article —

The owners announced the many modern details that the 48 unit (with one unit in the basement for a live-in service attendant/janitor), six-story, fire-proof, concrete construction apartment building will have. The apartments range from compact type studios, buffet kitchen bachelor units to larger units with separate bedrooms and numerous closets. Electric refrigeration will be in each apartment and convenient service closets with “immediate incineration of all kitchen and other accumulation.” Each unit to have “sound proofing.” The laundry room will be in the basement.

The property is to be attractively landscaped in addition to the wooded character of the property to the south.

The exterior architecture is faced with tapestry brick and ornamental stone on all four sides. An interesting grouping of windows permits floods of daylight, plus the stairs are daylighted. There is a colonnade of stone columns along 5th Street and a great stone circular arch. Inside, the marble foyer welcomes tenants and guests to the attractively furnished public lounge and electric elevator.


FIRE! FIRE! While the original news release touted the building to be fireproof—through the years—structure fires occurred on July 12, 1958 and December 29, 1958, but the most significant fire was on April 24, 2006. The fire chief said a cigarette was believed to have ignited the couch in the basement laundry room. Around 60 people were evacuated from 40 occupied units. Heat damage to the electrical wiring on all six floors forced the building to close until it could be “rewired.” The First United Methodist Church at 501 West 4th Street set up a temporary shelter for those in need. As of January 2025, a small portion of the Mayflower is re-occupied.

Automobiles and the carport also succumbed to fires in 2013 and 2022.

Bennett and Cole also owned and managed the Koronado Kourts in Joplin, San Antonio, and
Corpus Christi. The Joplin location was famous for being an iconic Route 66 travel court, circa 1936. The present-day Joplin site is now occupied by the Walmart Super Center at 1717 West 7th Street.

BIOGRAPHIES
Harry M. Bennett was born in 1891 and died on April 5, 1979. He is buried at Mount Hope
Cemetery in Webb City. His first wife was Martha, second wife was Jane, and he married his
third wife, Catherine when he was 63 years old. He and Catherine eventually moved from their
prestigious address in Joplin’s Roanoke Addition (616 Islington Place) to San Antonio, Texas.
Mr. Bennett continued to own the Mayflower after Mr. Cole’s premature death in 1944.
According to the 1920 US Census, Mr. Bennett’s occupation was listed as a druggist at a drug
store. Later his occupations were in insurance, real estate, and investments.


Richard Windom “Dick” Cole was born on February 23, 1889 and died of Leukemia on
August 15, 1944 in San Antonio, Texas at the young age of 53. His wife, Mamie Evelyn Windle
Cole was born on February 1, 1896 in Pittsburg, Kansas. She graduated from Joplin High
School in 1914. She died on March 17, 1980 in Corpus Christi, Texas at the age of 84. She was
well traveled. Dick and Mamie eventually moved from their prestigious address in Joplin’s
Roanoke Addition (629 Jaccard Place) to the Mayflower around 1940, and later to San Antonio,
Texas. According to the 1920 US Census, Mr. Cole’s occupation was also that of a druggist—
just like his business partner Harry Bennett.

Category: Homes, Joplin's Great Architects, Places in PerilTag: 150th anniversary, architecture, history, places in peril, Route 66, sesquicentennial

Austin Allen, The Architect Remembered

December 17, 2024 //  by admin

Enjoy Austin Allen featured homes in this flip book

Samuel Austin Allen arrived in Joplin in 1890 at the age of 10. His father was J.W. Allen an early pioneer and successful mine operator in the area.   Austin graduated from Joplin High School in 1898. He received a degree in architecture at the University of Pennsylvania in 1902 and later went to Paris where he pursued his interest in architecture. Returning to the United States Allen became associated with Bruce Price of New York, one of the foremost architects in the United States. After two years in New York he returned to Joplin to begin practicing his craft in 1905. Allen was an extremely successful architect with offices in Kansas City and in the Frisco Building in Joplin. His professional Joplin resume included such handsome structures as the Newman Building, Saint Peter’s Catholic Church, Olivia Apartments, Joplin High School, United Hebrew Temple, Elks Lodge, and many impressive homes. Mr. Allen was a member of the American Institute of Architects. His obituary in their journal noted, “that his work was marked by a “chaste dignity and scholarly restraint.” Mr. Allen married Belle Taylor and had three children.

Category: Austin Allen DesignsTag: architecture, history, places in peril, Route 66, Schifferdecker, sesquicentennial

2024 HMP Accomplishments

November 24, 2024 //  by Paula Callihan

HISTORY—Because That’s What We Do

“Celebrating the Architecture & History of the Houses in the Murphysburg Historic District” booklet (printed & electronic version) will be released around January 2025 and will feature 58 properties in the district.

Conducted historical research for the new owner of the Cosgrove Building (former Spiva Center for the Arts) and a house in the North Heights Neighborhood. 

Assisted in gaining historic designation and signage for homeowners.

HMP annual meeting featured Sherwood/Rader Farm Civil War Memorial Park and the future monument offering the Union perspective on the Battle of Carthage.  The monument is to be installed at the Jasper County Courthouse and will complement the Sons of Confederate Veterans existing monument.

HIGHWAYS & BYWAYS

Check out the new Jefferson Highway Wayfinder sign at 4th Street & Moffet Avenue.

Plans are underway for the 100th anniversary of Route 66 (West 7th Street) in 2026 via the City’s Celebration Commission for Historic Route 66.

Submitted a story to the National Trust for Historic Preservation “Preserve Route 66: Share Your Story” campaign about the George N. Spiva House (611 S. Sergeant) and the district as a Route 66 Complementary Corridor.  Mr. Spiva was the first vice-president of the Missouri 66 Highway Association. 

HMP attended Byways Leadership Training Program hosted by Joplin Convention & Visitors Bureau (CVB).

Represented HMP at the Route 66 Association of Missouri membership meeting.

SPECIAL DAYS ON THE CALENDAR

International Holocaust Remembrance Day, January 27 –  Presented the story about two Jewish brothers that survived Nazi terrorism in Berlin, Germany during World War II and found a new life at 204 S. Jackson in Joplin.  Media coverage included KGCS TV Newsmaker show, KSN TV Living Well show & evening news broadcast, KOAM TV news, the Joplin Globe, and KRPS Radio.  Full story is on HMP website.

Women’s History Month – In March, HMP revealed the untold story of three women who discovered an abandoned baby in the bushes at 219 S. Sergeant in 1945—a mystery that is still unsolved today!  Photograph and story were featured in the Joplin Globe.  Full story is on HMP website.  The story also explains better alternatives available in 2024 such as the new “Safe Haven Baby Box” at Joplin Fire Station No. 7. 

Historic Preservation Month in May-People Saving Places – HMP honored five homeowners of houses that were 120 and 125 years old.  Full story is on HMP website.

Indigenous Peoples’ Day, October 14 – Read about the life of Jere Charlow, the original owner of 101 S. Sergeant, on the HMP website.  A member of the Sioux Tribe, Jere graduated in 1898 from the Haskell Institute that was a residential boarding school in Lawrence, Kansas for American Indian children.  In Joplin, Jere was a bookkeeper for Picher Lead Company.  When Jere and family left Joplin, he become a clerk with the U. S. Indian Service-Cheyenne Agency in Dewey, South Dakota.  Upon his death, he was a special disbursement agent for the U. S. Government Interior Department in Lansing, Michigan.

Murphysburg Holiday Wreaths, hung on street light poles for November and December 2024.

JOPLIN CITY GOVERNMENT STUFF

  • Connected our neighbors to the Joplin Homeowner Rehabilitation Program-2 (JHRP-2)
  • Facilitated non-traditional public service announcement for the Joplin Police Department about Porch Pirates during the holidays. regarding financial assistance. 
  • Hosted a public meeting for the Joplin Homeowners Assistance Program (JHAP).
  • Wrote a letter of support for the HUD Choice Neighborhood Planning Grant.
  •  Hosted a public meeting for Joplin’s Capital Improvement Sales Tax Renewal. Represented the district at CVB’s “Tourism Connection Gathering.”

Assisted in the Downtown Joplin Alliance loft tour.  Represented the district at the Connect2Culture Annual Gathering.

  • Manage communications, inquiries about houses for sale, Joplin history & media inquiries. 
  • Welcomed new Murphysburg homeowners with historical documentation on their house and general HMP membership information. Qualified for donation sources such as Benevity.
  • Interface with North Heights Neighborhood Group, Downtown Joplin Alliance, City of Joplin, Joplin Historical Neighborhoods, Inc., Connect 2 Culture, Blue Haven Homes & Bykota, REI (the Olivia Apartments) and many other community organizations/projects.
  • Welcomed new Murphysburg homeowners with historical documentation on their house and general HMP membership information. Qualified for donation sources such as Benevity.
  • Manage Pinterest, Instagram, Twitter, Facebook, Mail Chimp, HMP website, liability
    insurance, storage unit, and more

FUTURE PROJECT

Tactile exhibit aimed at engaging neurodivergent citizens in historic architectural elements.


Volunteers are needed for HMP 2025 Third Saturday FUNDRAISERS

  • March 15: Celebrate Historic Preservation Month| The Murphysburg Treasure Hunt. Unlock the Secrets of Joplin’s Historic Past and Win $$$$$$!
  • May 17: High Tea Steeped in Murphysburg History
  • September 20: Whisky & Whispers Murphysburg Prohibition Night
  • October 18: Murphysburg After Dark : Tales of Spirits and Secrets
  • December 20: A Murphysburg Christmas Candles, Carols and Timeless Charm

Category: AccomplishmentsTag: architecture, entrepreneurs Women, history, Olivia, Route 66

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